The simplest path is if you are already in a graphical user environment with the HDD/SSD to be deleted connected as a secondary device.
If you have more than one storage device on your PC, before trying to delete anything, you need to know which it is, to dodge “mishaps” like wiping out the wrong disk. What differs is their availability, ease of use, and extra options for more secure deletion through multiple overwrites and patterns used. The only reliable way to delete sensitive data is by overwriting it with other data. The whole partition is “marked as non-existing,” and the space it covered as “unused,” but nothing is truly wiped out. The deletion of the entire partition and file system sounds like a better – and more radical – option, until you realize it’s the same thing but on a grander scale. Again, however, the file is not eliminated: the media controller marks the area inhabited by the file as “free to use,” but the data it contains remains unscathed. One might assume a “complete” delete, where the file is not moved to a Recycle Bin, is a safer approach. When we delete a file in modern OS, it’s usually transferred to a “Recycle Bin.” We can still recover any data from it for some time if we change our mind.
That’s why we’ll skip it and jump straight to the safer alternatives. Thus, the “official and best” method, Secure Erase, remains somewhat of a gamble, making the alternatives that follow much better choices.
Or because an iffy BIOS bug somehow “got in the way” and prevented the procedure from completing.Īnd (much) older hard drives (less than 15GBs in size) just don’t support it. Others say its operation “bricked” their devices because “the controller that turned them from internal to external ones” decided it would be a good idea to cut down on electricity costs by putting them to sleep.
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